Hervey Bay to Rosslyn Bay

At about 6pm on Thursday 2 August we arrived at Port Bundaberg with a golden/pink full moon rising after a perfect blue sky day of light W wind and calm sea. The next day we motored lazily up The Burnett River to the city of Bundaberg and anchored in very good holding mud amongst a couple of other boats. This morning I discovered the windlass deck switch refused to work so this was added to the list of jobs to be done. The remainder of the day was spent doing a lap of Bundy taking in the ambience along with a good coffee and a little grocery shopping.

Very healthy large pink viney plant in Bundaberg

Beautiful old buildings in Bundaberg

Saturday 4 August arrived with a heavy dew, blue sky and warm sun. After brekky  I got to and fixed the windlass switch which just required a good clean where the contacts had some corrosion all good! We then motored back downstream, with the tide, to Port Bundaberg and anchored near the marina where we reunited with our friends Jim and Rejane who arrived on their yacht from New Caledonia the night before. Their blog www.yachtdingo.blogspot.com is a great tale of their journey.
Sunday 5 was spent stitching up the UV strip on the genoa as well as a pleasant 10km walk to Burnett Heads and finishing up with afternoon tea with Jim and Rejane and Miff's freshly baked fruit cake.

Meeting Jim and Rejane on their arrival from the Pacific was perfect timing in Bundaberg

It wasn't until Tuesday 7 August that we departed Port Bundaberg. A 5.30am start on a perfectly clear day saw us motorsailing in a light 5-10kn SW all the way to Pancake Creek. We had our dose of excitment today in the form of a close encounter with a couple of large humpbacks heading south. We had 3 other sightings this day but none as close although it did heighten our level of watch.

The Young Endeavour sitting outside the town of 1770

Close encounters-whales spyhopping to check us out

We arrived at Pancake Creek around sunset after passing the prominent Bustard Head with its lighthouse, the first to be built in Queensland in 1868 and dropped anchor not far inside the entrance in company with 3 other boats. The following 2 days were spent swimming and walking the beautiful beaches and bush track to the lighthouse and lookout. The outside anchorage can get a bit rolly as we found out on our last night there so we may try getting further in next time we visit.

Bustard Head Lighthouse

Bustard Head Lighthouse

An impressive entrance- manufactured in 1866

 The Qld archives bear witness to a litany of tragedies that occurred in the area and as hinted at in this graveyard at Bustard Head.

Jenny Lind Creek looking south

We weighed anchor about 8am on Friday 10 August. The day ended up being a pretty good sail starting with 15-20kn SW for 3hrs then 3hrs of motoring. Then finishing with 15-28kn WSW approaching Cape Capricorn, where we reefed the main and double reefed the genoa, we sailed a further 6nm before ducking into the welcome lee of Hummocky Island in company with a cat called 3rd Wish with Bruce and Linda onboard.
The following day we had a delightful 22nm sail to Middle Island next to Great Keppel.

Sorcerer enjoying the breeze on the way to The Keppels from Hummocky Island (photo Linda 3rd Wish)

Middle Island-next to Great Keppel



The next 3 1/2 days were spent exploring the beaches , bush and hills of this beautiful island not to mention meeting some of the long time residents and locals. The resort was a mere shadow of its glory days but the current threat is for a development that threatens to destroy even more of the islands natural assets. When it came time to leave we knew this would not be our last visit to this special place.

Leekes Beach-Great Keppel Island

An interesting and sobering information plaque

Welcome to Great Keppel!

A curlew-we think he probably had an injured wing.

Off Svendsens Beach-Great Keppel

Hunter gatherer!

desert tracks ? Curlew

Jill Knights boat 'Cooee' Great Keppel

Jill and Miff having sundowners on Svendsens Beach Great Keppel

Beautiful handpainted signs on the walk around Great Keppel

Delightful bush on the Cooee Track

A eucalypt with long arms Great Keppel

This sign shows the way to the tree sit

John beat me to it. A great spot to relax

hirsute specimen

Not just signs but random words of wisdom scattered along the tracks

Not far to go

Halfway and Humpy Islands viewed from Great Keppel

walking the track to Bald Rock Point Light

view north to Wreck Bay

Bald Rock Point helipad and light

whale skeleton Wreck Bay

Svendsens Beach Christmas tree

John keeping up the journal entries

The Ancient Quinine Tree

Butterfish Bay

Monkey Beach 

Rosslyn Bay, about 8nm from Great Keppel, is the harbour serving Yeppoon. On Wednesday afternoon we arrived in the well appointed and friendly surrounds of the marina for a couple of days of restocking and the usual washing jobs.

Rosslyn Bay marina entrance

The view northward over the marina from the top of the hill

Mooloolaba to Hervey Bay

Monday 18 June an early rise allowed us a 7am departure from Mooloolaba with the high tide. This time the bar was relatively benign although we took no chances and reversed our incoming path to take us to an open sea without any dramas. Jimmy was there in his tinny to bid us a bon voyage on a sparkling Monday morning.

Jimmy farewells us from Mooloolaba on a perfect Monday morning

The kite was soon put to good use in the light 5-10kn SSW breeze for the next 7hrs before we were forced to start the donk to keep up the modest average. It was about 6pm by the time we dropped the pick in the bay around the corner from Double Island Point. There was a very slight swell coming in but it was well protected from the prevailing wind and after an easy tea it was time to hit the sack.

Enough breeze to keep this up for 7 hrs out of 10

Tuesday 19 June
Wide Bay Bar which provides access to and from the southern end of The Great Sandy Straits has a section in it called The Mad Mile. The name is quite apt given its reputation for at times a dangerous piece of water especially when swell conspires with tidal current to create nasty breaking waves. Our turn to cross was uneventful having got the latest waypoints for the channel from the volunteer marine rescue and timed it well with a low swell and rising tide. Nevertheless it was sobering to imagine less than ideal conditions when we had breaking waves either side not too far away and at one point down to 2.5m below the keel.

Heading for Wide Bay Bar. Double Island Point left of pic and Rainbow Beach

Once inside Inskip Point we were greeted by calmness and sunshine of The Great Sandy Straits.
A mile north a sea eagle greeted us as we dropped anchor at Elbow Point to soak it all up. Lunch, a beach walk and a swim was the perfect entree.

Just inside Inskip Point and the serene waters of The Great Sandy Straits heading north

White Breasted Sea Eagle always a majestic sight near Inskip Pt

After lunch it was a short motor to one of the best known all weather anchorages, Garry's Anchorage for the night.

Miff sighting the distant channel markers into Garry's Anchorage

The next morning at Garry's we caught up with fellow cruisers Trevor and Gail who we met in Port Stephens and Derryn and Dianne from Devonport, Tas. We all set off on a pleasant walk through the foreshore bush then Miff and I continued on further to explore the sand and mudflats.

Early morning peace, Garry's Anchorage

I didn't realise!

The wonderful mangrove

Miniature life

Wandering aimlessly?

Thursday 21 June
Paying close attention to the tides we headed north to South White Cliffs relieved to have made it through the shallowest section in the Straits. South White Cliffs is a delightful anchorage with large expanses of water at high tide and sand at low tide and sunsets on cue.

Sandy Straits sunset

looking the other way

Just relaxing here is easy. Caught a couple of bream for tea, went for walks, had sundowners with Trevor and Gail. It's a photographers and twitchers delight. Fantastic birdlife here, sea eagles, ospreys, brahminy kites, herons, eagrets and they are only the ones we know. Then when the weather went grey and gloomy Miff put her book down and took to the galley to bake a delicious fruit cake ( don't take any notice of the expiry date of the mixed fruit) in the improvised pressure cooker oven.

Fresh is best

Miff works her magic with the pressure cooker oven

Its a big country

Mangrove leaves

Sandy Straits low tide

Plenty of sand for the Soldier Crab

End of another day

Sunday 24 June
The next part of the journey was unexpected. Instead of making our way to Hervey Bay in our own good time, when the sun was shining and the wind favourable my heart had other ideas. In short I had a heart attack which started about midnight Saturday at South White Cliffs. Sixteen hours later after a slow showery windy trip I was treated in Hervey Bay Hospital then flown that night to Royal Brisbane and stented a couple of days later.
Thursday 28 June
Discharged from hospital.

Some may say this is a drastic way to avoid Miff's cooking

Two hospitals and one stent later, Brisbane and my beautiful first visitors Sarah, Tim and Arlo

Back in Hervey Bay with friends Roy and Cindy

Our new crew member

Tuesday 24 July
Today Miff and I returned to Sorcerer in Urangan Marina, Hervey Bay and it felt good to be home. For the past 4 weeks I have been rehabbing in Sydney and on the NSW south coast where the walking on beaches and mountains is beautiful. Also I discovered an exercise trail in Hervey Bay which I made full use of by riding the bike to and doing a session. A checkup with my cardiologist in Brisbane on 30 July gave me the OK to finally get going north again so we restocked, refuelled and watered ready to go.

Southport to Mooloolaba

Southport to Mooloolaba

Making the inside passage of South and North Stradbroke Islands is a welcome sheltered alternative to the outside route especially when there is a big sea running. If the weather is good its even better when you can try fishing or crabbing, we weren't inspired to do either except for once on the last afternoon near Steiglitz. With our 2.2m draught we also needed to take careful note of the tides to reduce the chance of grounding in the shallower sections, Beacon to Beacon was a valuable navigation aid.  
After 3 days of windy rainy weather we arrived in calm clear conditions at a delightful anchorage next to Macleay Island at the bottom end of Moreton Bay. As a treat after being a bit boat bound for three days in the less than inviting weather we went ashore to the village to buy a few essentials and have a yummy meal of baked spud and coleslaw at The Blue Parrot Cafe.
A late start from Macleay Island saw us arriving at Bongaree inside Bribie Island 41nm north at about 8pm after a dead calm  Moreton Bay.

Moreton Bay sunset approaching the Port Brisbane shipping lane

Friday 16 June
We woke to a sunny clear morning and set off for Mooloolaba at 7am in a 10kn SW breeze. Having overestimated the distance we had to travel we arrived off Mooloolaba at 1.30pm with the tide only half way in.

sailing along Bribie Island with the spectacular Glasshouse Mountains behind

Passing Caloundra with The Glasshouse Mountains behind

After speaking to Marine Rescue about the state of the bar we decided to sit off and wait for the swell to abate, the tide to rise and to observe, with the help of AIS, the course taken by other vessels coming and going through the entrance. By about 3.30pm we thought we'd give it a go. The course involved heading towards the beach about 500m from the wall then running parallel with the beach just behind the breakers. When we were level with the outer end of the wall we ran towards it at 90 degrees. This took us through water as little as 900mm below the keel, and brought us to the end of the breakwall with just enough room to squeeze between it and the breaking waves across the mouth and at the same time watching out for surfers and all manner of water craft having a ball on the said wave.
Once inside (what a relief!) we were welcomed by Miff's brother Jimmy and friend Bruce and with their pilotage it was plain motoring to our secure anchorage amongst the waterfront mansions of Mooloolaba.

A warm welcome to Mooloolaba from Miff's brother Jimmy

A timely warning for a busy barway entry

Typical weekend traffic at Mooloolaba  barway

The weekend was spent off the boat with Jimmy and Julie at their home in Buderim enjoying hospitality only families can provide. The beautiful weather allowed a good tour of Mooloolaba with Jimmy and Julie including a Saturday morning cafe breakfast, tour of the canal marinas and homes and replenishing food, fuel and water supplies in readiness for our departure on Monday morning. 

Who needs a dinghy when you have a bath?  Mooloolah River local.

Iluka to Southport

With thoughts of sunny walks along beautiful beaches, swimming in warm surf and catching fish for dinner our time on The Clarence River didn't quite live up to expectations. Fortunately our time spent with my (John's) Aunty Sue, who lives at Iluka, more than compensated for the less than perfect weather. It began with fresh king prawns for lunch at Aunty Sue's and over the week in Iluka included many cuppas and catching up on family news and reminiscing. My Dad's and Aunty Sue's parents retired to Iluka and as a child I spent many memorable holidays here from the sixties onwards.

rainforest on The Bluff Nature walk

We managed to fit in between rainy days, a walk through the peaceful Nature Reserve rainforest to The Bluff Beach for a quick swim then back along the main Iluka Beach to town followed by a birthday celebration gathering for Aunty Sue at the Boatshed Cafe with the volunteers from the op shop for afternoon tea.

Sea eagle nest on telegraph pole Iluka

The anchorage in the bay is very secure and convenient to the beaches and all the town services including good coffee at Hullabaloo and fresh and good value fish & chips at the Fisherman's Co-Op.

The safe anchorage in the Iluka Bay

Miff performing maintenance in an exotic port

morning coffee & John's Mum's dateloaf Iluka

The well set up dinghy pontoon in the bay in front of the pub

Osprey nest on mobile tower Iluka

Ibis wandering the streets of Iluka

The day before leaving Iluka we drove to Woody Head with Aunty Sue to take in the scenery and share an ice cream. This was also a good place to get an idea of what the sea conditions were like for the next leg to Southport.

Woody Head interpretation sign

John and Aunty Sue at Woody Head

A short walk from the anchorage is the entrance wall, popular with fisherman, and a good viewing platform to survey the state of the barway. Always reassuring to know what to expect before committing.

fishing trawler heading out of the Clarence River mouth for a nights fishing

Monday 4 June
Aunty Sue's Birthday. Weighed anchor at 0645 on a clear blue morning with a light westerly blowing. Passed Moriaty's wall and waved to Aunty Sue as she sent us on our way. Cleared the entrance past a well behaved bar and out onto a gentle SSE swell. As the breeze picked up to 10-20kn WSW we made good time in reaching Cape Byron, 52 nm north by 1530.
 Between The Clarence and Cape Byron we had the thrill of siting at least six separate pods of humpback whales some way in the distance but clear enough to see them breaching and tail slapping with spectacular results. Also to complete the nature display we saw a turtle and had dolphins swimming alongside.

Cape Byron light Australia's most easterly point

distinctive landmark of Mt Warning off the Byron coast

As the sun set the wind increased to 15-25kn W and a brilliant moon rose in the east. By now we had a double reefed main and genoa but were still averaging 5.5kn. Because we wanted to wait until daylight to enter the Southport Seaway we needed to slow somewhat. Unfortunately we didn't have a lot of choice but to slow as we headed more NW from Tweed Heads and the wind also swung to the NW and kicked up a sharp short 2m + sea. We ended up having a pretty uncomfortable 6 hrs before tucking in close to the shore and motorsailing for the last 2 hrs in a dropping wind. The entry into Southport Seaway was very straightforward in an offshore breeze and rising tide. We soon found our way to Bum's Bay and a good anchorage for a well earned rest.

sunset north of Byron Bay

The Gold Coast south of the Seaway

Tuesday 5 June
After a couple of hours recovery nap we woke with the very big surprise of finding our friends from Tas , Tim and Sal, in the carpark opposite our anchorage waving at us. Of course we didn't delay in going ashore and heading to the nearest wine bar for a celebratory drink and catch-up. That evening we found a good value dinner at a Burleigh Heads hotel followed the next day by a very nice lunch at Tim's cafe choice in beautiful Burleigh sunshine.

beachside Tai Chi for the masses at Burleigh Heads

Saturday 9 June
Having sampled the gentler side of Goldcoast life, replenished supplies including a gas refill and the added bonus of seeing our Tassie friends it was time for a farewell coffee with Tim and Sal before continuing north. We anchored at the sheltered Tipplers Passage, South Stradbroke, a couple of hours away, in just enough water amongst the weekend revellers and powerboats.